Dining Choices – Good and Bad

by davidmcguffin on July 23, 2011

I took my final “student educational tour” in 1999.  This trip was a bit different from my previous “student educational tours” in that it was designed as a performance tour for my band students and me.  Leading up to the tour, I did a lot of planning and selected all the destinations.  In my now famous “McGuffin tour style,” we stayed in some out-of-the-way locations, as well as visited big cities.  In fact, the company handling my tour arrangements had never taken student groups to a few of our destinations.  Although this tour was well planned, we still had to put up with mostly poor hotels and the usual tasteless dinners.

There were some memorable dining experiences in the small villages I had chosen.  I remember the little family-run hotel in Rot-an-der-Rot with a basement bowling alley.  The mom and pop chef team were happy to feed us and keep the second helpings coming until the pot was empty.  The same was true with the hotel restaurant in Interlaken.  However, beyond that, dining was disappointing.

I don’t have many “dining” photos from those early student tours.  I did find this one of my son and his friends at a “nice” restaurant in a village on the Rhine River.  Notice the plate of fries and breaded meat.  On another occasion, I recall being taken to a Moroccan restaurant in Paris where we were served undercooked chicken and couscous.  How can that be?  We were in Paris, the gourmet capital of the world, and we were served, not escargot and steak frites, but  Moroccan cuisine from another continent!

 

 

 

 

ROME: Dinner on the Piazza Navona

In contrast, here is a photo I snapped on one of my student tours a few years ago in Rome.  The dinner consisted of three courses, the second being filet of beef, roasted potatoes, veggies and a strawberry and chocolate garnish.  Not only was the meal a dining experience, the ambiance and location was amazing.  This dinner is at the Café Bernini on the very popular Piazza Navona.  ROME: Dinner on the Piazza Navona

Here are some food related comments from a recent tour.  The question posed is, “In general, what did you think of the dining experiences [on your tour]?

“The food and wine was fantastic every night. The last time we went to Europe we didnt eat nearly as good. It made the trip much more memorable being able to enjoy good food and not having to worry about trying to figure out what to order.”
-  Paris to Rome Tour, June 2011

“What kind of question is this???  Haha.  Almost always delicious, and I am a VERY picky eater, by American standards. Often, I wish there was some sort of choice for dinner, but perhaps that’s not the way things work over there.  Also, I found the food in Switzerland to be subpar.” –Paris to Rome Tour, June 2011

If you would like to read more comments from my tour alumni, take a look at my tour comment page.  Or, you can leave your own comments about “dining with David” right here!

{ 1 comment }

Cooking Is a Cultural Experience

by davidmcguffin on July 21, 2011

Learning to make pasta from scratch

I’ve grown to enjoy cooking over the years.  I remember my first crack at it was when my wife traveled on a six-week business trip to Washington.  My children were in college and out of the house, so I was left at home to “fend for myself.”  So… I cooked.

It’s said that the best way to learning something is to study hard and practice the art.  I’ve done a lot of both.  Consequently, now that I’ve been at it for more than a decade, I’ve got a pretty good concept of what tastes good and more importantly, why it tastes good.

Years ago, I began taking my students on “educational” tours to Europe.  These tours were organized by huge travel companies that packed a bus and ran them through Europe as cheaply as possible.  There were many things I did not like about these early tour experiences, but for now,  I’ll concentrate on eating and food choices.

In my experience, a typical meal on a student educational tour consisted of weak pasta or salad, a mystery meat cutlet, French fries and a fruit or ice cream cup.  Getting a variation of this day after day simply was not my idea of European cuisine.  It certainly did not match the grand dining experiences of which I had so often read in books and magazines.  On many occasions, I remember returning to the USA and rushing to the first “American” restaurant just to get a good meal.  My students’ first stop was often  McDonalds!  You can read my account of these early days of eating in Europe at my blog entry titled:  “I always came home hungry.”

Oysters, Guinness and Brown Bread - Oliver St. John Gogerty - Dublin, Ireland

With this in mind, it is no wonder that quality dining experiences are an integral element in my “Exploring Europe” travel philosophy.  For me, eating is a cultural experience no less important than seeing the sights, visiting a museum or chatting up a local.  It brings the locale to life and presents an authentic and literal “taste” of the destination.  I’ve developed an uncanny knack for finding good places to eat.  Most often these are far off the “tourist” radar and feature fresh local cuisine, passionately prepared and served by a caring chef.  However, I’m not opposed to breaking away from a traditional menu, of say, meat and potatoes in Ireland, and supporting an eclectic chef’s fusion-styled menu.

In my next few blog entries, I will share my passions of European travel, cooking and dining.  I hope it makes your taste buds tingle!

{ 1 comment }

Lyon, just a TGV journey from Paris

by davidmcguffin on July 15, 2011

Candice Brown, a former student, has family who live in France.  Luckily, Candice and I were able to coordinate our travel schedules so that we could meet up in Lyon, France.    

 

TGV in Paris Gare Lyon

Preplanning is the key to getting a seat on one of Europe’s busiest trains.  I booked my TGV ticket online, several days in advance (visit http://www.voyages-sncf.com, choose your route, and pay by credit card online).  The journey was a breeze once at the Paris Lyon TGV station.  I zipped through the French countryside at lightning speed and was in Lyon in just over two hours.

Candice, our friend Abby,  and her grandfather Jean-Paul met me at the station in Lyon.  We hurried back to Jean-Paul’s home where I met Chantelle, his wife.  After a little visit, we were off to explore the town.

Starting at the Cathedral, on the highest summit, we made our way downhill through woody parks, medieval cobbled streets, the Renaissance city, and finally the 20th century “new” town.  It was a delight to have Jean-Paul and Chantelle as my private guides.  I felt so special that they would devote a day to showing me around their hometown.  An added bonus was visiting with Candice and Abby, not in Orange Park, but in France.

Lunch in Lyon at "Les Adrets"

One of the highlights was our dining experience.  The Restaurant Les Adrets (here is the TripAdvisor link) was located in the heart of the old medieval town and seemed to draw attention from only the locals.  Jean-Paul told me that reservations were essential, and luckily, he had booked us a table!  There was no menu and very few choices, but that did not matter, because the food was divine!

For my starter, I had toasted bread loaded with greens, olive oil, and fresh anchovies.  It was amazing!  A funny thing: when I asked Jean-Paul how to say “anchovy” in French, he laughed and said,  “It is a French word, so it is anchovy.” 

I’ve had a lot of salmon in the past few weeks, but Restaurant Les Adrets’s salmon plat was the best so far.  It came perfectly prepared and fresh from the sea.  The local wine from “Cote du Rhone” was presented in a traditional “pot” or glass bottle, only available in the Lyon area.  The bottle had several inches of glass at the bottom.  I speculated the bottles were made that way so that they would not tip over after a bottle or two!

My garlicky cheese dessert and Abby's sorbet

 

Later, we returned to Jean-Paul’s and Chantelle’s home where we sat, talked, and visited.  This was the best!  I picked up so much about French culture, protocol, and customs.  Like any grandparents, they were proud of their grandchildren and their immersion into their (French) culture.  I am truly thankful to have had an opportunity to experience Lyon with the perfect hosts in Jean-Paul and Chantelle.

Lyon Lion - Candice, David and Abby

Candice and Abby, thanks for showing me around!

{ 0 comments }

Scottish Highland Vistas

by davidmcguffin on July 8, 2011

A few days ago we experienced unsually perfect weather in Scotland… 65 degrees F, few clouds, lots of sun and an awesome vantage point.  Just outside of Fort William, a funicular transports visitors to the highland approaches of Ben Nevis, Scotland’s highest peak.  Here is a short video about my experience.

{ 1 comment }

Carcassonne… an authentic medieval fortress

by davidmcguffin on July 3, 2011

Carcassonne's outer walls

Recently, I’ve been reading two of Ken Follett’s novels, Pillars of the Earth and World Without End. He sets the fictional story in a realistic Middle Ages town in England, which he calls Kingsbridge.  Mr. Follett’s description of Kingsbridge Priory, the Earl of Shiring’s Castle, and the town of Shiring came to life for me today upon visiting Carcassonne, a medieval fortress town in southern France.

Carcassonne is located in the south of France about one hour from its border with Spain.  Since about 700 A.D.,  the huge stone walls have provided refuge and fortification for various lords, earls and their serfs.   It is surrounded by two massive outer walls with towers and barbicans, a moat, and a large drawbridge all designed to ward off attacks.

Carcassonne's inner town

Inside the walls are the restored remains of a thriving medieval city.  It is easy to imagine medieval life going on in Carcassonne.  Merchant’s shops, pubs, craftsmen and noble houses are easily identified. 

There is an inner close, a castle within a castle, where the lord of the town apparently lived.  Enclosed within these secondary fortifications is a modest palace and church.

After touring the town, I decided to find a spot for dinner.  After rewalking the town to assess dining possibilities, I referred to ”TripAdvisor.com” and decided upon “Adelaide Restaurant.”  The GPS feature on my iPhone led me directly to the restaurant, where I was lucky to get a table.

Entree

This being my first night in France, I was ready for their rich cuisine.  I decided upon a fois gras starter with fig compote and greens. 

Plat

 My main course was their duck confit cassolette, which included a roasted duck leg and its juices,  cooked in a pot with white beans and sausage. 

 

Dessert

Dessert featured chocolate mousse and rasberry ice cream.  This was all washed down with a splash of the local red wine from Corbiers, just down the road from the restaurant.

{ 1 comment }

Swiss Alpine Train Excursion

by davidmcguffin on July 2, 2011

There are several scenic train routes running through the Alps of Switzerland. The “Golden Pass” route connects Lucerne, Interlaken and Montreaux and offers what many think to be the best scenic alpine train excursion.

I began my journey at the halfway point, in Interlaken. After a beautiful ride along Lake Thun, I transferred to a cog-driven train. Here we climbed the 76% grade trek through alpine meadows to the high point of the expedition. Then we began the journey down to Montreaux offering beautiful vistas of the Alps and Lake Geneva.

Here is a short video highlighting my adventure.

{ 5 comments }

The Winners of my 2012 1/2 price tour give-a-ways

by davidmcguffin on June 27, 2011

HA! This was after a long day of experiencing Italy. My good friend, Genuino del Duca helps me select the winners.

{ 2 comments }

A day of Mishaps

by davidmcguffin on June 27, 2011

I think Steinbeck said it like this, “The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry.”  After this day of running around like a chicken with my head cut off, I totally agree!  I thought I had organized a good travel plan for leaving Barcelona and arriving in the remote village of Carcassonne, France, but instead, I ended up with a day of misfortune.

My first mistake was not making an advanced reservation on the train from Barcelona to Narbonne, France.  Now, this was not because of poor planning, for I had visited the train station the day before my travel to get information and a schedule.  However, to book the ticket for the next day, I would have had to wait in a que for two hours or more.  The “same day of travel que” was only a few minutes.  I reasoned that it made no sense to waste two hours now, when in the morning, I could get the same ticket in ten minutes.

As it turned out, there were no seats available on the first leg of my journey, so I had to wait three hours in the Barcelona train station in order to catch the next train to France.

I hung around in the McDonald’s, located in Barcelona’s train station, for three hours.  HA! I even bought a Coke Light and french fries, just so I could take advantage of the free WiFi!

Finally, at 1:00 p.m., I boarded my train and was on my way to France.  We had to change trains at the Spain/France border, which was a major upgrade from the slow “Spain Train” to a sleek and fast TGV Train.

I arrived in Narbonne, France at 5:00 p.m.  I had had enough foresight to prebook a rental car at the Narbonne station, but upon arrival, the rental car office had closed early this Saturday afternoon!  Ughhh! I found the Hertz rental office was still open and was able to secure the only car remaining, a tin-can Ford Fiesta.  No worries, so I headed off on the superhighway toward Carcassonne.

About forty-five minutes later, I was safely tucked into my hotel in Carcassonne.  Nestled between the hill and vineyard, I was ready to do some exploring.

{ 1 comment }

The Windmills of La Mancha

by davidmcguffin on June 23, 2011

 

Windmills of Consuegra

Sixty kilometers southwest of Toledo stands a vast and wide-open plain on which is planted grains, olives and grapes.  If, while visiting Toledo, you have a car, it is well worth a trip to visit the small town of Consuegra. It is here you’ll find the famous “Windmills of Consuegra.”

I’ve often seen images of these windmills dotting the pages of “La Mancha” travel articles, but until now, have never had an opportunity to visit.  There is a swift new “AutoVia” super-highway leaving Toledo and traveling right by Consuegra.  By car, it takes about 40 minutes.

Approaching Consuegra from the north, you can see the windmills from a distance, across the plains.

Windmills seen from a distance

It was a bit of a challenge trying to locate the road up to the windmills.  My GPS was useless, but we found signs pointing us to the castello and the windmills to be helpful. 

All the windmills have specific names, like "Geronimo"

 

The windmills became famous in the 16th century when Don Quixote was first published (BTW – I read somewhere that Don Quixote is the second most read book of all time, after the Bible).  These windmills were introduced by the “Caballeros Sanjuanistas,” who brought these machines to help mill grain.  They were handed down from father to son.  There are still three operating windmills, but only for tourism.  All fell out of use in the 1980’s when less expensive forms of milling were introduced.

Man of La Mancha- Ha!

{ 2 comments }

Segovia, Spain – Cool, Quiet and Stress-free

by davidmcguffin on June 21, 2011

Roman Acquaduct

My friends and I stayed in Segovia last night.  A small medieval town of about 60,000, it offered a stress-free beginning to my adventures in Spain and Portugal.  An added plus is that it is at an elevation of about 3,000 feet so the weather was very cool and pleasant.

  My GPS was useless in the narrow cobbled streets, but the signage was pretty good at directing me to the main plaza.  I learned a long time ago not to drive into a medieval town without first walking it.  So, we parked in the modern underground parking lot and I walked the pedestrian-only streets to my hotel.  Then, I got in the car and drove the route which I was instructed by the hotel staff.  If you are interested in the mistakes I’ve made and how I learned to first walk, then drive read my blog entry “Too Much Room for the Road.”

Infanta Isabel Hotel proved to be a good find. Located on the pedestrian-only Plaza Major, we found a friendly reception staff, clean and updated rooms, and a perfect location from which to explore the town.

One of the main attractions in Segovia is the Roman aqueduct. At one time, it carried water over nine miles from the Río Frío to the Roman fort in Segovia. Today, it is amazing to see a remaining section of the aqueduct that is 2,500 feet long and 100 feet high. Roman engineers and workers constructed this section 2,000 years ago out of 20,000 precisely cut, granite stones, which were stacked without the aid of any mortar.

Cathedral and Plaza Major

The Cathedral sits right on Plaza Major and dominates the skyline. Since construction began in the Renaissance (1525-1768) it contains a variety architectural styles, mainly Flamboyant Gothic. However, the church is capped with a dome more closely related to late Renaissance and Baroque church buildings.

Alcazar

I took a stroll from the aqueduct to the Alcarzar, trying to get a “feel” for the town’s layout. About 8:30 p.m., the place came alive with locals and tourists taking to the streets for the paseo, the nightly stroll and visit time.

This being our first day in Europe, we were hungry and ready for bed by 8:00 p.m. However, people tend to get a late start on the evening in Segovia (and most of Spain).  By 9:30 p.m. we could hold out no longer and decided to eat at “Caesars,” the restaurant associated with our hotel.  Dinner was delightful, sitting on the main square and watching the “town” go by.  I had a fine meal of gazpacho and a local specialty,  roasted suckling pig.

{ 1 comment }

← Previous Entries

Next Entries →